Methods of Make

When comparing tailoring services be sure that you are comparing on a like for like basis.

Here at Redmayne we have a number of different pricing points, even without our special offer and promotion deals, so you only pay for the work you ask us to do.

Proper bespoke tailoring uses a loose canvas interlining, the alternative is a "fusible" method of canvassing. Either method can be used for bespoke, making to measurements, with or without fittings, and for our copying service.

Please feel free to mix things up; any method of make can be used on any cloth, but each cloth will benefit from the correct method. What follows is a brief list of the methods of make and characteristics which each method has - in our opinion! All the information is about jackets - and waistcoats. The work in the trousers does vary across the methods of make, in that the more expensive makes use better trimmings and incorporate more hand work. Whatever the method of make, we are sure that in its class, it offers you the best value when compared like for like against our competitors. One thing is certain however ..... careful, deliberate hand crafted work, produces a much more comfortable garment when you have it on!

Quick ways of checking quality of make

Button holes in the cuff - usually four, at least two real working holes! The inside of the cuff should be made so that the sleeves can be shortened or lengthened when real holes are used - a mitred cuff.

Lapel button holes - if this has a key hole shape it reeks of speed and probably means there is a very "price conscious" approach to all the making policy. A better sign is if the lapel hole is just two parallel lines without an eye.

 

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If the lining runs into the front corner then the coat has been made on a "bagged out" or engineered system, and is price sensitive. It is also almost certainly held together with double sided sticky tape. The life expectancy of this method of make is shorter.

If the join of the lining and facing has this little square finished arrangement, then the coat has been made on an "open coat" system, and will have additional hand work on the inside to help retain the jacket's shape.

 

Bespoke / Custom Tailoring

To the "cognoscenti", bespoke tailoring is the fulfilment of your specific requirements, in a technically skilled and aesthetic way, using traditional methods of tailoring with horse hair canvas interlinings, linen stays and many thousands of small stitches, together with judicious use of a "goose" ( a heavy iron.), to mould shape into the cloth of your choice.

Sometimes you will hear the word "coat" used instead of "jacket" - this is usual in the US, and in fact in the bespoke trade, a coat maker makes jackets !

Our bespoke service uses horse hair canvasses, -

Bespoke / Custom Tailoring

Bespoke canvassing uses many hand stitches in the make up of the canvasses, enabling us to give a more controlled and flexible shape to the end product. The suppleness of this method of construction makes an extremely comfortable and well shaped garment. Our bespoke make allows the "feel" and drape of your chosen fabric to be shown at its best.

To those of you who have not experienced the pleasures of hand padded ( that's the term for a lot of the little controling stitches we use inside on the canvas!) jackets, the joy is yet to come, but be warned ..... bespoke tailoring carries a wealth warning!

Bespoke garments are entirely hand made in house, from your own individual paper pattern which we cut and prove from fittings. From 2011 we also offer a less expensive, but just as technically skilled jacket from a workroom in China we have been working with for 7 years.

Made to Measure - some may call it Bespoke !

When we do this, as with our bespoke system, we cut an individual paper pattern for you - other people probably do not do this.
Fittings are given part way through the construction process, not adjusted at the end of the making process - like so many of our competitors!
The canvasses, a floating chest piece and a fusible interlining are used in the body of the jacket - this is more thorough than the alternatives which may use a graduated fusible canvas.
Use this make where the comfort of our bespoke/custom make is not as important as price.
Made to measure garments are hand finished in house, and cuffs are made for full flexibility with real holes.

 

Copying

Too busy to call for fittings, or just can't find someone to take over from that favourite tailor you used to use? Copied garments are translated into an individually cut paper pattern, made in whichever method of constriuction you wish. You make savings because we don't give you a fitting, but even this an optional extra. Your added bonus is that you get the thorough attention our special skills and tailoring are known for. Self measure your trousers for greater savings!