The Nuts & Bolts of Tailoring
to Measure and Bespoke
A short synopsis of the choices available to you...
If you are used only to buying ready made, you will be familiar with the trail around to find something you like. In fact most men will visit perhaps three or four shops, and then buy the clothes they least dislike. If you find yourself nodding heartily to the above and want a little more out of life, read on. If however you feel no stimulus at all, stick to the sales!!
The outfitter, men's shop or tailor you choose will have different working methods and may or may not have their own workroom
The Basics - your selected "tailor" will take an elementary "set of measurements" and pass these together with the cloth you have chosen to an outside tailoring company. Larger tailoring companies will have computer cutting facilities; this will eliminate certain operating errors, and their methods of construction will produce a "ready made" look. There are still a handful of independant outside workrooms, which work on much lower overheads. Their cutting is more flexible than that of a computer system, and often more subtle shapes can be accommodated using these workrooms.
Mail Order - you may have seen advertisements for clothes by post. In the main these will be for made to measure trousers, as jackets seem to create a problem for some companies. You obtain a self measuring form, choose a cloth, pop it into the mail with your payment, and await delivery of your new goods - usually a budget service with budget makes.
Copying by post is a specialist area, as those who take it on can always be held to account by comparing the new garment to the original sample! Also, new interlinings and the behaviour of these interlinings with the new (different) cloth, can create a different "feel". Copying methods vary; elementary copying will take length, chest, waist, hips and sleeve length into account but little else. More sophisticated copying methods will take account of geometry, positioning the neck circle and armholes as determined from the sample. There should be careful placing of the pockets and suppression in the waist, so as to recreate the silhouette and image of the sample garment.
Adding subtlety - achieved either by the cut or in the methods of construction. There are a handful of better quality, small workrooms which take work from a few retailers. They have a close relationship with the measurer who is feeding them with the information they are using to cut your suit, jacket or trousers. These workrooms may use modern "fusible" methods of construction, a very few may hand canvas their coats in the traditional way.
Using ability and experience - here we are entering the realms of the bespoke tailor. If you can find a retailer who has experience of drafting and manipulating patterns; they should be able to make up at least a first fitting, and may have some tailoring experience - as opposed to just cutting ability. In most cases from the first fitting your garment(s) will travel to an outside coat or trouser maker.
The "bespoke" tailor - These are the established tailoring houses, more often found in Savile Row, but if you are lucky, you may find one or two outside London. This "retailer" will have a full set of skilled craftsmen and women, who specialise in their own area of work, jackets (coats), trousers and waistcoats (vests), each of whom has an intimate working relationship with your personal cutter, who interprets your "bespoken" ideas into reality.
does Redmayne fit in?
Redmaynes can offer the "subtlety", "ability" and "experience" of the specialist bespoke tailor. Whatever price level or choice of make, only skilled craftsmen will be handling your cloth.
If you are using our copying service, you can select any method of make as all of our construction methods will recreate the look of your original garments; larger tailoring companies are often less flexible.